Bill's Aircraft Factory

First Flight

Trips

Horizontal Stabilizer

Vertical Stabilizer

Elevator

Trim Tab

Rudder

Wings & Fuel Tank

Ailerons

Flaps

Fuselage

  Page 1

  Page 2

  Page 3

  Page 4

Engine & FWF

  Page 1

  Page 2

  Page 3

Instrument Panel

Electrical System

Building in the Basement and Moving to the Airport

Dynon Autopilot Installation

Things to Consider

Tools

Products

Tell me again

Helpful Links

Plane Pictures

FAQ's

E-mail:

bill (at) repucci (dot) com

 

Aileron construction

Caution - Man running (with) power tools
 

 

E The process starts by fitting the stainless steel counterweight to the aileron spar.  Here is a picture of the left and right structures.  They will be covered by an aluminum skin, like the rest of the plane.  (5/6/04)

 

F Next up is cutting and shaping 28 aileron stiffeners.  These little things really do make a difference as the aileron skins are very flimsy without them.   In the foreground is a finished stiffener, behind that is the stock the stiffener is cut from and behind that is the aileron skin with all but one stiffener riveted in place.  (5/8/04)

 
E The stiffeners are then match drilled through the skins, into the table, and clecoed in place to hold them in alignment.  (5/11/04)
 
F After all the match drilling and deburring the parts are acid etched, alodined, and primed.  (5/12/04)

 

 

E Here I am drilling the left aileron skins to the spar.  The assembly is being held in place by four, 25 lb bags of led shot.  (5/13/04)

 
F After trashing four #30 bits drilling the leading aileron edge to the stainless steel counterbalance you get this porcupine looking thing.  (5/13/04)

There is a better way.  Assemble the aileron as per the instructions, then use your #30 bit to mark the location of the holes in the stainless steel counterbalance.  When ready, disassemble the entire thing and drill out the holes in the counterbalance.  This will keep you from wallowing out the holes in the leading edge skin.

 
E The trailing edges of the rudder, ailerons, and flaps have to be match drilled at a funny angle while holding an aluminum wedge in place that runs the length of each part.  Once the holes are drilled the part needs to be countersunk.  I made this little jig to hold the wedge while I countersink it.  The two little pieces were off the end of the wedge.  They were then drilled and nailed into place with the nails being set below their surface.  This jig holds the surface of the wedge flat, which makes counter sinking much easier.  (5/21/04)
 
F Here is a picture of the jig with a wedge in place and the countersinking tool inserted in one of the holes.  (5/21/04)
 
E  The trick to getting a straight riveted trailing edge is to start with a straight clecoed trailing edge.  I found that by putting all the clecos in from one side caused my TE to bend.  By alternating the clecos top and bottom the TE miraculously straightened itself out.  Note the call outs for the rivet sizes on the top of the aileron.  This keeps me from doing something dumb, like putting the wrong rivet in the wrong hole.  (05/23/04)
 
F  Take a look at the rivet set I ground down before reading the next caption, it will help you understand how I drove my rivets.
 
E  After carefully squeezing the rivets in the trailing edge with a set of custom ground rivet sets, the edge came out straight without the use of proseal or other glue.  I just simply followed the directions with regard to the order of squeezing them.  Start by 1/2 squeezing one rivet in the middle, then one on each end.  Then 1/2 squeeze a rivet between the middle one and one of the ends, then 1/2 squeeze one on the other side.  Keep splitting the difference between the rivets while moving back and fourth along the trailing edge.  Once there is a 1/2 squeezed rivet in every hole, go back and squeeze them the rest of the way in the same order in which they were 1/2 squeezed.  (5/23/04)
 

F  Here is a picture of how I was able to squeeze the last rivet on the end aileron ribs.  I used the handle of a small pair of needle nose pliers to "open" the rib and then used my Avery's no-hole yoke to reach the rivet.  I had to partially squeeze the rivet, push it down with a center punch and then finish squeezing it the rest of the way.  (6/6/04)